India’s Heavenly State – Jammu & Kashmir
Amazing Experience at an elevation of 3888 meter above sea level 12756 Ft
Apart from religious significance, the trek to holy cave gives adventurous experience with natural beauty of Lidder valley.
Amarnath Yatra is one of the important and toughest pilgrimage trek located in a narrow gorge.
It is a life time experience to see the lush green terrains, snow covered stretch, water bodies, glaciers not only provide the soothing effect to your eyes but give thrilling experience too.
Significance:
As per the widely accepted mythology, Goddess Parvati asked Lord Shiva to tell the secret of immortality so Lord Shiva took her to secluded place, mountain cave (now known as Amarnath Cave), knowing that it would be impossible for anybody except the gods to enter in the cave, while going he left his Nandi at Pahalgam, moon decorated on his head at Chandanwadi, snake he wore around his neck at the banks of Sheshnag, his son Ganesha at Mahagunas mountain, he also left five elements of universe i.e. water, air, fire, earth & sky at Panchtarni (Panjtarni). It is believed that the Pigeon often seen at the cave, also heard the secret of immortality “Amar Katha” told by Lord Shiva to Goddess Parvati, they also become immortal and pilgrims often spot them inside the cave.
History:
Most Ancient Cave: It is reported to be over 5000 year old and has been documented in many ancient text and purans.
There are references found in Kalhana’s Rajatarangini that legendary king Aryaraja used to worship ice lingam in Kashmir, circa 300 BC. The another reference shows from 11th century AD, the Queen Suryamati (Book VII v.183), the wife of King Ananta (1028-1063), “granted under her husband’s name gifted trishulas, banalingas and other sacred emblems to the shirne.
In his Chronicle of Kashmir, a sequel to Kalhana’s Rajatarangini, Jonaraja relates that Sultan Zainu’l-abidin (1420-1470) paid a visit to the sacred tirtha of Amarnath while constructing a canal on the left bank of the river Lidder (vv.1232-1234).
A French Physician François Bernier, who visited to Kashmir in 1663 wrote the book “Travels in Mughal Empire” mainly about the reigns of Dara Shikoh and Aurangzeb, he mentioned about the places he visited, noting that he was “pursuing journey to a grotto full of wonderful congelations, two days journey from Sangsafed” In second edition, the editor, Vincent A. Smith, clearly mentioned that: “The grotto full of wonderful congelations is the Amarnath cave, where blocks of ice, stalagmites formed by dripping water from the roof are worshipped by many Hindus who resort here as images of Shiva..”.
As per the legend, Sage Bhrigu was the first to have discovered and have darshan of Shiva at Amarnath cave. When people heard about the lingam then it became tradition for the annual pilgrimage, performed by many people in the month of July & August during the Holy month of Savan.
The original name of the tirtha, as given in the ancient texts, is of course Amareshwara, Amarnath being a name given later to it.
One can, therefore, conclude without any doubt that the Amaranth Yatra has been going on continuously for centuries along the traditional route of the Lidder valley.
Shiv Lingam:
It is a Swayambhu lingam, natural stalagmite formation and located in the ledder valley. The stalagmite is formed & measures about 200 cubic meter inside the cave and increases up to 12 ft.
A strange feature of the shrine is that rises in height when the atmosphere outside the cave is warmer and shrinks during the winters. This lingam of Shiva is said to grow and shrink with the phases of the moon, reaching its height during the summer festival.
As per the Hindu faith, the yatra begins on Ashadha Poornima (The Day of Full Moon of Hindu month ‘Ashada’) and ends on Sharavana Poornima (The Day of Full Moon of Hindu month ‘Sharavana’). The approximate two-month Yatra conducted amidst very tight security and unpredictable weather conditions. Devotees believe that one can attain redemption by witnessing this ice Shiva lingam.
Here, the stalagmite considered as the Shiva lingam, a physical manifestation of Shiva, form a solid-dome-shape. Parvati and Ganesha are also present here as two smaller stalagmites, if we see the cave it is made up of limestone and gypsum. Researchers and scientists said that heat generated by tourists, affects the size of the stalagmite and outside temperate contributes in reduction of its size and it gets melted before the end of Yatra.
Best Time To Visit:
Do Visit the cave during Shravani Mela in July-August (Shravan month in Hindu calendar) is the only time in the whole year when the Amarnath Cave is accessible.
How to Reach Amarnath ?
The two routes of Amarnath
Route 1 (Traditional route) via Pahalgam – 38 km
Pahalgam – Chandanwari – Pissu Top – Sheshnag – Panchtarni – Holy Cave
Vehicle allowed till Chandanwari.
This route takes minimum 3 days to complete the trek.
Route 2 (Short route) via Baltal – 14 km
Baltal – Domail – Barari – Panchtarni – Holy Cave
It is steep, hence difficult to climb, shorter route & one can complete the yatra in 1 day with good stamina & if starts early.
Both the routes, are known for their scenic mountains, glaciers, natural glory, waterfalls and snow.
Weather conditions in the vicinity always remain uncertain & unpredictable and the journey to the cave is not only exciting, adventurous but also arduous too.
Procedure to Register and Visit to Amaranth:
Online Registration: This facility is available on http://www.shriamarnathjishrine.com/
One needs to fill online form, mention date of Yatra & route then upload the health certificate issued by the authorized Medical Practitioner list available at official website http://www.shriamarnathjishrine.com/
Once your application verified and approved you will receive link to make the payment, once payment done you can download the Yatra Permit. Need to carry it along with original health certificate while travelling on specific date & route mentioned on Yatra Permit.
Offline Registration: Yatra form available at designated Banks and need to fill it and submit with the health cerficate to the bank, pay requisite fee then your Yatra Permit will be given by Bank which can be carried while travelling on specific date & route mentioned on Yatra Permit. Limited permits available for each day and route on first come first serve basis. Without registration and valid Yatra Permit, Pilgrims not allowed to undertake yatra. Yatra permit covers the insurance cover of Rs. Five lakh in case of death due to accidental while undertaking the Yatra.
On Spot Registration: There are provision of spot registration as well who couldn’t registered the counter is at Bhagvati Nagar Base camp, Railway Station Jammu, Srinagar Airport.
After showing your Aadhar card you will get RFID card which you can carry during the yatra.
Kids below 13 year, pregnant ladies and senior ciitizens above 75 year not allowed to undertake this yatra.
Documents Required for Amarnath:
Application form
Health certificate
Passport sized photos
Aadhar card UID
Facilities in Amarnath Yatra
Medical Facility:
State Health department provides various medical facilities, Base Hospital available at base camps i.e. Balatal and Pahalgam
Medical aid center and Emergency aid center available enroute from baltal and Pahalgam till holy cave at different points.
Accommodation:
Pre fabricated huts and tents are available at Base camps (Baltal & Pahalgam) with quilt, mattress, blanket and pillow.
Private tents also available for night stay priced between 200 – 700 per person on sharing basis depending on the tent and facilities.
Food and Langar:
This is the best thing available during the entire yatra, base camp to ease the journey of the pilgrims.
Many community kitchens so called “langars”, “Bhandaras” managed by charitable trusts and organizations serve free foods to pilgrims, yatris can enjoy the taste of freshly cooked, hot and delicious food and chant “Bam Bam Bhole” “Har Har Mahadev”.
These langars also arrange and offer accommodation to pilgrims without any cost and pilgrim can donate any thing in the form of cash if they wish.
Langars mainly setup by the Punjab, Haryana and mostly from northern part of India.
Security: This is the very important part when it comes to travel to Kashmir and specially to Amarnath Yatra every year due to potential terrorist threat. Indian army, CRPF, BSF, J&K SPF, ATS ensure the Pilgrims will be safe during the Yatra. All the vehicle only goes with the “Convoy” which starts from Bhagvati Nagar base camp Jammu and goes till base camp of Pahalgam and Balatal. Even while returning back all vehicle should be in “Convoy” where military vehicle protect the route and pilgrims through entire journey.
Due to Security Reason Private & tourist vehicle travel not allowed during the yatra after 3 pm as try to travel early morning and reach at your destination before 4 -5 pm.
Clock Rooms/Lockers:
Clock room & locker facility available at minimum charges at the base camps and at the holy cave as well.
Parking: If you are coming by your own vehicle, parking facility is also available at the base camp.
THE BEGINNING
In April 2022, One fine Morning, I was reading a news paper and read the news about Amarnath Yatra starting this year after 2 years gap actually 3 years (as in 2019 due to Article 370 yatra got suspended), suddenly remembered my first Yatra which I performed 12 year back.
As I always love nature, mountains, trekking, thought of visiting this year in 2022, secured health certificate, registered & filled online form, once my application approved paid the fee and downloaded the Yatra permit.
Informed everyone in my family, friends, trekking group about this pilgrim trek but only few turned up and when heard about the difficulty level and steep climbing with the unpredictable climate no one confirmed.
Made the travel arrangement and the starting dates of Yatra were from 30th June 2022 to 11th Aug 2022 i.e. 43 days.
I chose the Baltal route and my yatra date from Baltal to holy cave was on 14th July 2022.
Suddenly on 8th July 2022 heard sad news of cloud burst near the holy cave of Amarnath and everyone was shocked as many tents and people washed away, death of 16 pilgrims and more then 40 were missing. Yatra suspended till the situation gets favorable.
Received calls from Parents, Family members, friends asking me to cancel the flight and plan yatra for next year, I told everyone that I am keeping watch on the situation was in touch with Srinagar & base camp authorities to get updates, if situation gets worst then I have no other options but the cancel but if yatra resumes then I will continue as per my plan.
On 11th Yatra again resumed from Pahalgam route and on 12th from Baltal route so I decided to continue with my earlier plan.
DAY 1: SRINAGAR – BALTAL BASE CAMP;
On 13th July reached Srinagar Airport in afternoon 1 pm. I started my journey as solo but in flight I met a young guy Mr. Shankar from Noida, we had a discussion, they were group of 13, after meeting we were group of 14, yes I joined them, they all were surprisingly asked me that ‘All the way from Mumbai you came alone for this difficult trek with so much of courage at this situation. They were already postponed their yatra twice due to cloudburst.
At Srinagar Airport we were issued RFID cards and then we took two Innova taxi to reach Baltal. Srinagar to Baltal is approx. 115 km with scenic view of mountains, Apple farms, Rivers, Glaciers.
Driver was in hurry as the check post will be closed by 3 pm if we could manage we can reach till baltal or else will have to wait till next morning. Due to security reason travel after 3 – 4 pm not allowed for tourists and pilgrims as Amarnath Yatra & Yatris always on the radar of Terrorists.
After we crossed the check post Driver stopped at one Dhaba where we had our lunch and famous tea of Kashmir “Kahwa”.
Before the Baltal base camp, we passed through the place full of glaciers and snow covered mountains, it was SONMARG many tourist comes here in winter to witness the snow fall and enjoy to weather.
Baltal is just 12 km from the Sonmarg and enroute you can see the underground tunnel work which will reduce time to reach ZoZila Pass (Zero Point) towards the Leh and ensure continue travel throughout the year towards Drass, Kargil & Leh Ladhakh.
Neelgrath is the place from where one can take the helicopter service to reach Panchtarni, 3 km from the holy cave.
After passing through Neelgrath the huge parking space provided for the vehicles where pilgrims and tour operators can park their vehicles, taxis allowed till base camp gate.
Before reaching to base camp one needs to go through rigorous checking process by Army where everyone needs to get down from vehicle and walk through the metal detector, show ID card then only they will be allowed to go. One more checking point at the base camp where you need to carry your luggage and scan it.
Now you are at base camp and can see Huts, Tents, Langars, bhandaras, shopkeepers sells the woolen cloths and other stuff required for the yatra.
We reached around 5 pm at baltal base camp, went to the Langar named Shiv Shakti where our group was going to stay. We freshen up then roamed within the camp, it was too cold, chilled night, had dinner and opted to sleep as wanted to get up early morning to stand in queue at Domel gate which normally opens for pilgrims at 4 am.
DAY 2: BALTAL BASE CAMP – DOMEL – BARARI – HOLY CAVE – BALTAL BASE CAMP:
Everyone woke up at 3 am and after morning rituals we were at Domel gate by 4 am. We all decided to take bath near holy cave as now need to trek and we don’t know when the weather condition gets change. I filled my hydration pouch at langar with the hot water, poured Glucose packet in it to get fueled during the trek to avoid any AMS symptoms. I also carried Chana, Dryfruits, Peanut chikkis, even Langar people gave us Lemon juice, chocolates, biscuits, they were also serving tea at this time for pilgrims. Really heads off to them who do this regularly till the yatra ends every year without expecting anything from pilgrims except ask to chant “Jai Bhole” “Bam Bam Bhole”.
It was huge crowd already gathered & lined up, were standing in queue, Army checked our bags at check post then we also stand in queue waiting to open the gates but till 4.45 am no one allowed as gates were still closed, then heard announcement which we were not expecting “Due to Bad Weather Condition near the Holy Cave Gates will Not Open till the Weather Condition gets Favorable”. Everyone was scared as cloudburst happened just 5 days back so the Army also was taking precautions. I asked Ghodawalas and Palkiwalas as they everyday goes to Holy cave to ferry pilgrims they replied that yesterday afternoon it was heavy rain near the holy cave due to that have doubt about today’s yatra.
Again One Announcement at 5 am that Due to Bad Weather Condition Near the Holy Cave Gates will Not be Opened till the Weather Condition gets Favorable and If Anyone Wants to Go Back to Baltal Base Camp they Can Go.
It means very less chances to start the yatra on that day.
Everyone chanted “Bam Bam Bhole”, “Jai Bhole”, “Har Har Mahadev” everyone was optimistic and prayed to lord and lord listened to them.
At 5.15 am Army Announced and Opened the Gates, asked everyone to follow the lane, keep their Yatra Permit ready to deposit at Gate. All were very happy that finally the Yatra starts from Domel Gate.
After passing through the gates lot of horse and palkiwala make the route disrupt as they wait for the pilgrims.
After crossing this we need to keep the same pace as this is very steep ascending towards the barari.
You can find the langars in this route, your right side down you can find river with the glaciers and upward mountains. Route is same for Horses, pony and pithhus, Palkies and for walking pilgrims as well, it’s a narrow path, sometimes entire path covered by horses, Palkies and walking pilgrims need to wait to let them go or take one side and walk slowly. However After Barari Horse route gets separated and walking pilgrims have sigh of relief to walk at the path without fear of horses.
Ghodawala
It was around an hour since we started, other group member were very far, we only four were ahead and waited at one langar, had tea toast, langar people given Glucose powder, chana & then we again started.
It was around two hour since we started, now climate gets changed, it was too cloudy as it might rain anytime so I decided to wear rain suit, Poncho to protect from the rain. And rain started moderately, I took break at Barari langar, had breakfast, Hot Paratha with curd. It was around 8 am & I already completed around 6.5 km which was close to half of the trek.
After small break of 20-30 min I again started climbing towards holy cave as I thought to complete trek before rain ruin it. As due to rain trek gets slippery and we won’t be able to keep the same pace, it was dangerous too & Army anytime can stop the pilgrims to continue due to heavy rain, And I was right.
I crossed Kali Mata trek which was more dangerous however Army put the roap to protect but trek was very narrow and landslide prone path. I crossed it around 9.40 am.
After that again the challenging trek as land sliding may cause disruption the route but thankfully the intensity of rain was not much so I covered this trek, took bath at the place which is just 2 km from the Holy cave from where it is visible.
I reached near the Holy cave at 11.30 am, kept my bag, mobiles at shop, as mobile, leather not allowed inside the Holy cave.
Cloud Burst Tragedy on 8th July 2022
Just beside the Holy cave where the cloud burst happened on 8th July, I seen the place, it was really a tragedy as local guys whose shops completely vanished told us about the day.
Even the army huts, tents were damaged, one Army person told us how they handled that situation, still the debris laying there and army tents abandoned.
No one can predict the weather at this place, Army personnel keep announcing that please offer the prayers to Holy cave and immediately try to return to the base came, try not to spend much time here as it was already raining and baltal route was very risky to descend due to land sliding prone path.
I performed Puja to Lord Shiva natural Ice lingam although the size was just half might be due to climate change and heat of devotes but I had a darshan, also seen Pigeon in the Cave.
I came down from the cave, had lunch Rajma Chawal at langar then started returning journey to Baltal base camp. I informed my group that I am going towards Baltal and they can also start early as once they offer prayer to Lord Shiva.
Returning to Baltal was challenging as due to heavy rain, movement of horses, Palkies, Pilgrims the path gets slippery, sluggy, it was difficult to walk. Thank fully I was having sturdy trek shoe, trekking pole which helped me a lot.
I seen so many people wearing sports shoe and other regular shoe were not able to walk, few of them had taken out the shoe as the sole of shoe got damaged
I finally managed to trek back to Domile by 7 pm where I seen the Ambulances carrying the casualties happened enroute. I took rest at one langar, had oil massage to my legs by local guy who charged Rs. 50/-, I had hot milk and laddoos to get energy to atleast reach to Shiv Shakti Langar which was around 1 km from there. I made up my mind and started walking slowly and finally reached. Changed cloths, Had dinner and slept by 8.30 pm as I need to get up early in the morning to get the taxi to reach Srinagar Airport.
Still from my first visit to Amaranath Cave 12 years back
Day 3: BALTAL BASE CAMP – SRINAGAR AIRPORT – MUMBAI
In late night I came to know that 4 people from our group still not reached at base camp due to heavy rain. As after 12.30 am rain started til morning it was continuously raining, I wake up around 4 am, got ready to go to taxi stand which is around 1 km. I Thanked to my group members then started walking in rain towards taxi stand by 5 am, Got the shared cab till Lal chowk of Srinagar but I offered driver extra penny and he agreed to drop me till Airport.
We started but stopped at check post as no vehicle allowed to proceed without the Convoy, We have to be with Convoy which starts at 6.30 am so we waited then once Convoy passed we also started, after gandarbal we took another route, entered in the city, en route seen the Dal lake, stopped to purchase the Kashmiri Apple & Plums.
Reached Srinagar airport by 11.00 am, Srinagar airport has strict checking points even if you enter with your vehicle, need to get down, scan your luggage, get it tagged, show the ID then your vehicle will be allowed inside. Again at the airport entrance gate checking and even after security check before entering to the plane the airline personnel check you with metal detector. My flight was delayed by one hour so I reached at Mumbai in the evening with the memories of Amarnath.
Nearby Places to visit: Sonmarg, Zozila Paas, Zero Point, Leh, Srinagar, Dal Lake.
How to Reach Amarnath
By Air: The nearest airport is Srinagar. Srinagar is about 115 km from Baltal and about 96 km from Pahalgam & well connected with the major cities.
By Rail: Udhampur and Jammu are the two major nearest railway stations from where taxi can be hired.
By Road: Srinagar is connected to Jammu via Jammu Srinagar highway and from Srinagar one can reach to the respective base camps Pahalgam (96 km) or Baltal (115 km).
Tips for Amarnath Yatra
- Go for regular walk at least one month prior to the yatra for 5 -6 km.
- Start breathing exercise that will help.
- Weather is highly unpredictable there so be prepare to keep rain coat, woolen cloths, cap, gloves, woolen socks.
- Trekking pole or walking stick is must to carry (wooden stick you may get it at base camp as well)
- Highly recommended is the sturdy trekking shoe with good grip (do not use sport shoe as it may give up if its rain and roads will be very slippery)
- Poncho –Must to save your backpack getting wet
- Wear appropriate clothing
- Keep energy boosting snacks
- Carry a first aid kit
- Respect the mountains
- Carry your Yatra permit and ID card with you
- Keep the power bank with you as mobile battery dry fast in mountains.
Elevation of different places
Places Elevation above sea level
Srinagar 1585 m (5200 Ft)
Baltal 2743 m (8999 Ft)
Sonmarg 2730 m (8956 Ft)
Pahalgam 2740 m (8989 Ft)
Chandanwari 2895 m (9498 Ft)
Panchtarni 3500 m (11482 Ft)
Holy Cave 3888 m (12756 Ft)
I feel that everyone who is in good health must visit to Amarnath once in a lifetime.
If you find this blog informative please do leave comment!!
Jai Bhole !!!
Nice blog and wonderful pictures, would like to visit once
Hi, while reading the blog, I could feel the entire journey very live…. Truly amazing experience..
Pls do keep going and keep sharing..
Very nice and informative blog. Thank you so much for sharing all this wonderful info. Will like to visit Amarnath one day.
As always great to read each and every minute details on the yatra. Keep blogging
Very nice information. Keeping sharing such information